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酒乡笔记 | Vintage 2019 LOL

时间:2019-07-22


采收报告



In this case it means laugh out loud! This is the best way of dealing with nature and the seasonal variations which are normally the reasons why we enjoy viticulture.


写下这个标题,是因为采收季总是充满欢笑,这是我们应对自然和季节变化的最好方式,也是我们热爱种植业的原因。


2019 will always be remembered by me, for a devastating frost which occurred on October 18th 2018. It is extremely disappointing, that in a matter of 3 or 4 hours the whole season can be damaged so severely. Very disheartening for all involved especially the vineyard guys who work so hard all year, and have to largely rely on nature to deliver a reasonable crop.


2019年将会一直被我铭记——因为2018年10月18日那一场严重的春霜。那一天的3、4个小时破坏了几乎整年的收成。这对于一整年在葡萄园里辛勤工作、依赖收成而生活的人们来说,太让人心碎了!



From then till Christmas we enjoyed a wetter than normal spring which also impacted on the quality of the flowering. Spring gave us a perfect start to summer with plenty of canopy and soil water stored for the drier months. Summer was ideal with healthy canopies and no disease pressure. We started (and finished) vintage earlier than ever before. Maybe to do with climate change, but I believe it was more about large canopies driving small crops so things ripened rapidly and very successfully. A season very similar to 2017/18 with average rainfall between September 1st and April 9th. Heat summation for the same period was 169 degree days higher than the long term average (1138°C days) or about 15% up.


从那个时候到圣诞节期间,我们经历了一个比以往更潮湿的春季,这也影响了开花期的质量。春天给了我们一个完美的开始,到夏天的时候,叶子已经长得非常茂盛,土层下储存了足够可以用来度过干旱秋季的水分。这个夏季相当完美,叶子长得很健康,没有发现病虫害。今年的采收季比往年来得更早一些,可能有气候变化的原因,但我觉得更主要是因为阔大的叶片使得葡萄串长得比较小,因此成熟得比较快。从九月一日到四月九日之间的平均降雨量和过去的两个年份(2017/2018)比较类似;同期的热量累积值达到169°C days,比长期平均值1138°C days高了大约15%。



The Pinot Noir we have picked at this early stage looks and tastes fantastic. Deep ripe colours, loads of fruit and soft ripe tannins. They will be long term wines with great depth of character.


在这个较早开始的采收季收获的黑皮诺葡萄,无论是外观还是味道都很棒,成熟的深黑色,果味丰富,单宁柔和,具备可以长期储存的葡萄酒所需要的复杂深邃的特征。



The perfect summer has given us classic Chardonnay. Very clean, ripe flavours and adequate acid. These wines should be in keeping with the style we have been exploring since 2010. Complex aromas and flavours, restrained acids, and fresh lively fruit flavours.


这个完美的夏天馈赠给我们经典的霞多丽,非常干净、具有成熟的果味和足够的酸度。它们可以用来酿造我们自2010年一直尝试酿造的风格:具有复杂的香气和果味,收敛的酸度,并带有新鲜活泼的果实口感。



Pinot Gris looks to be stunner. Real depth of flavour edging into Gewürztraminer flavour profiles, most likely due to the smaller crop.


灰皮诺则十分惊艳,其香气的深邃程度直逼琼瑶浆那样的种类,可能主要归功于我们对它产量的控制。




Sadly the frost has dealt a blow to our ever increasingly popular Pinot Blanc. It was totalled! Next year!


非常遗憾的是,由于春霜带来的冷风严重影响了我们日益受欢迎的白皮诺,它被彻底地毁坏了,只能期待明年了!



We have had largely a new team this vintage. Tim our new winemaker and Mark who has jumped from the vineyard to winery to help, have taken on the winery work successfully with support from Manon and Carol in the laboratory. Well done, never an easy time of the year with 7 days a week required for 4-5 weeks.


这个采收季,我们拥有了一个崭新的团队:新加入的酿酒师Tim,还有从葡萄园来到酒庄帮忙的Mark,他们与在实验室工作的Manon和Carol一起,非常成功地完成了今年的酿造工作。在采收季里,连续4-5周、每周7天不间断地工作,从来都不是一个轻松的活计,他们真得很棒!(小编:996?太Easy了,他们真的是711啊)







Thank you to Mei for taking these amazing photos of vintage this year.


还要感谢Mei今年在采收季拍摄的这些美妙的照片!

 

Larry

2019.04.23

 

-The End-


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